girl power

UNNATI’s (the organization I’m working for) vision is to “Create an inclusive society where all stakeholders, particularly the vulnerable-dalits and women, participate with full empowerment and gain equal access and control over services, resources and institutions”. 

As an education organization they work toward that vision by sensitizing others to the issues via field level interventions focusing on capacity building and sharing of knowledge.  They educate the leaders and then work to make sure that the knowledge is transferred to the community.  UNNATI does not do any implementation.  They are all about getting the local people involved in the process and creating ownership in them for their own development and empowerment.  Basically, “they help people help themselves” which I totally love.  I’ve been really impressed the organization and feel grateful that I was placed with such an outstanding NGO.

I’ve learned that discrimination basically comes in 3 forms: 1. Alienation, 2. Humiliation, and 3. Exploitation.  Something to think about… the ways we contribute to or witness discrimination our lives. 

More on the dalits population later as it’s very complex and I’m still processing the situation and my reactions to it…. but right now I’m contemplating how that in Western Rajasthan  (and all over India) women are singled out as a part of the “vulnerable” population.  It’s such an interesting concept as I can honestly say that as a woman, I don’t know if I’ve ever known what it feels like not to be empowered. 

I had a beautiful conversation with my host mother Karin Didi (FYI…I have 2 host mothers as I’m in a joint family.  A mother and father with 2 grown children-a daughter in college in Mumbai and a son working in Glasgow- and her niece and husband and their 7 year old, my beloved Anauashree…this chat was with my "older" mother) about being a woman in India.  For context, Karin Didi is probably in her mid 50s and is a Rajaput which is the highest caste in Rajasthan...the king caste.  She seems to have a happy partnership with her husband and she is absolutely free to speak her mind to him (or anyone else for that matter).  Now the story is that she used to live with her in laws (and sent her kids to boarding school at 3^rd grade cause she couldn’t stand her mother in law’s influence on them) where the women were just supposed to “stay behind the curtain” and live a domestic life.  Karin Didi was restless and bored but didn’t know what to do so she bravely went and told her father in law that she wanted to pursue something outside the home but didn’t even know what was possible.  She asked his permission to dream.  “Will you please grant me permission to dream of something else…a different life?  With your blessing I might be able to find the courage to think about possibilities and not worry about the wrath of my mother in law and society”.  She had a saintly father in law who granted her his permission and then became her champion as she became a fashion designer hosting shows and selling her work and even being commissioned to create a wedding sari for a Japanese princess (don’t ask me why a Japanese princess was getting married in a sari??).  Since then she has become an “award winning” English teacher at a progressive local elementary school and has raised a daughter of her own.  She is also being a positive role model to Anaushree and all her students...showing them a world of possibility.  All because she was granted the permission to dream and then pursue her dreams. 

She knows she is blessed and that not all women in India are so fortunate.  I know that I’m also fortunate for being able to dream and pursue (and even achieve) many of my desires.  I need to remember that I am empowered and need to be a good steward of that gift since many of my sisters all over this world not have the option.  I don’t need to ask anyone’s permission to dream.  I have girl power!

The photos are of me and my host mom, Karin Didi; 2 sisters caring for their little brothers while their parents work as mine laborers; and a very pregnant mother going to get water.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

A day off

Yesterday (Sunday) was a nice break from the routine of work and it made me really appreciate the 2-day weekend we have in the US. 

I live “far out” from the city center (about 10 kilometers) so my host family arranged an auto waha (auto rickshaw driver) to drive me (and the other interns) for the day.  It was so great to have our own driver so we didn’t have the hassle of negotiating with the wahas or maneuvering the buses (I haven’t tried an Indian bus yet!).  Feroz picked me up at 8:30 and dropped me off at 6 and the cost for the entire day was… $8!!  Divided by the six of us that we crammed into the rickshaw…it was an awesome deal! (Even though I did feel a little like a princess not using the public transport…I’ll work up to that.)

We walked around the old city market (picture redneck flea market meets organic farmers market Indian style!) and then hiked up to tour the Fort.  From the Fort you can look out and see the famous Jodhpur blue houses. It’s really a beautiful site.  Completed the day at the local “Super Target” called Reliance Market-which has the only escalator in Jodhpur- to get toilet paper and some almonds (I need protein!) 

It was nice to explore outside my work/home environs and to re-connect with the other interns. Being in India is overwhelming and difficult to process.  Add on the heat, living in someone else’s home, starting new jobs, language barriers, lack of nutrition (I don’t know how over 1 billion people are surviving on this low nutrient diet), on and on… It’s interesting to see how each of us are adapting and reacting to this experience.  For some reason, I connect with India and thrive in exploring her complexity. Don’t get me wrong… I’m uncomfortable at times but all and all enjoy the chaos and challenge of interacting with this culture.  My perspective broadens and my heart grows in gratitude every day.  As you drive around in your air conditioned cars on nice “organized” paved roads; when you brush your teeth using tap water; flip and switch and watch the electricity come on and stay on… count your blessings and think of me and your brothers and sisters living in India.

I spent the evening with my family…strategizing on how to get my new Indian clothes (still no progress from the FSD tailor, so my host mother and I are going to just start over tomorrow with her fabric shop and tailor…all in all it’ll be a $12 and 1 week loss) playing Go Fish, Memory and learning the cheesy (but fun) music video dances from little Anuashree. 

Back to work tomorrow…. 

 

 

 

 

Saturday

Namaste!  It's Saturday in India and I'm at work.  

I'm so engaged in my work although I haven't done anything yet.  I've found that I really enjoy observing (I wonder if I could get a job as a professional observer?) I'm bonding with my team over our chai breaks twice a day.  We laugh a lot as we try to communicate.  

I've met my Indian "other"... Rekha Didi (didi is term of endearment that means sister).  She was the facilitator of the training I observed at the DRC (Dalit Resource Center).  It was so neat to watch her engage and connect with the participants as she worked the room with a marker in her hand and facilitated the training.  I think she'd get a kick out of watching me facilitate.  I try to explain that what I do for a job is the same as what she does, but I don't know if she can totally comprehend. Rekha Didi speaks little to no English but is already excited about coming to America to live with me.  She just needs to check with her husband and 3 children.... 

I’m trying to figure out how to best post photos.  The Internet here is very spotty. Maybe tomorrow I can find an Internet café?

I’m writing a proposal for my project and will present to Hitendraji (my boss…I found out I was calling him the wrong name before!) on Monday.  It’ll include 3 components:  an “on-boarding” plan for future interns, “executive coaching” for Hitendraji and Mridu (a young, empowered and thus restless key female staff member), and a small field assignment for UNNATIs work with the “vulnerables”.  It’ll be a lot to accomplish in 3.5 weeks, but I’m excited about trying to impact UNNATI’s effectiveness as well as get field experience.  I’ve found that the language barrier (and the fact that I’m a 6ft tall white women) really hampers my helpfulness in the field.   I want to accelerate the important work UNNATI is doing and not hinder their impact.

As I’m reading and researching empowerment and the vulnerable population, I am conflicted with the fact that my host family has indigent servants (1 mother and 5 children) all waiting on us hand and foot.  I don’t think that they are of the Dalit caste, as those people would be too low to even come into the house or especially the kitchen, but it still serves as irony as I try to reserve judgment, learn about this culture, and more importantly learn about myself.  The servants are treated “well” and are very friendly with little Anuashree (think The Kite Runner) but still cannot wear shoes in the house and must sit on the floor.  I was taken back last night as I walked into the kitchen to my host mother feeding them on the floor right next to the dog’s bowls.  Thus the complexity of India…

On a happier note, I’m looking forward to a day off tomorrow and will be meeting up with other interns to sightsee and shop in the old city bazaar.  I hope to be able to pick up some of my clothes since it’s getting very old washing in the bucket each night and rewearing the same clothes to work every day.  Thank God I’m not in high school anymore as it used to be unbearable for me to “repeat” clothes…thank God I’ve evolved! 

I’m practicing a Buddhist philosophy now regarding the heat.  To be hot is inevitable…but suffering is optional.  Thus you will not hear me complain about the heat or talk about sweat anymore. (But know that I AM STILL hot and sweaty!)

Happy Saturday to you!  

update from sweaty Jodhpur

Update from sweaty Jodhpur

It’s 10:45 p.m. and I’m sweating with a headlamp on… the rains came and the power is now out.  Frequent power outages are common occurrences in India. 

Much has happened since I last wrote… I dodged my 1^st sand storm, moved in with my host family, started work at UNNATI and now am experiencing my 1^st back out. 

After experiencing a fantastic thunder and light show, I dined by candlelight with my family, put on deet (when the rain comes…so do the mosquitoes and when the power is out…the windows are open), popped 2 Tylenol PMs hoping I can sleep in this intense heat.  I’m living a true Indian experience!

I adore my host family and am so glad I have 7 year old ‘Shree to be my Hindi tutor.  She is so sweet and patient as I practice by asking her…”what is your name?” and “I need a bottle of water” over and over and over again.  She loves the Go Fish game I brought her and I practice my Hindi numbers as we play.  She speaks and reads English very well.  I’m jealous.

I walk (5- 10 minutes) to the UNNATI office.  Everyone is so nice and treats me well even though communication is very difficult.  The 1^st day my supervisor Chaudanji (ji is a sign of respect as in Ghandiji) talked to me for hours about the organization and opportunities for my involvement.  My head hurt from trying to listen so hard to his “Hindinglish”.  I will learn as much as possible over the next couple of days by observing and reading and then will present a project plan on Monday.  Day 2 we went out in the field so I could observe a training session UNNATI was hosting for Dalit (untouchables) block leaders.  It took about 2 hours to reach the village, so I got to see the Jodhpur desert and my 1^st camels. There were about 25 participants representing 12 villages at the training.  They sit on the cement floor because they are not used to and thus uncomfortable in chairs and after sitting on the floor all day (11-5); I realized that I really, really like chairs.  It was interesting to observe the training although I didn’t understand anything that was said.  I was just able to watch body language, listen to their voices (tone, cadence) and witness the discussion.  After being asked to give a “speech” at the end (that was funny!)…We drove the 2 hours back home. 

Interesting conversation was interspersed throughout our road trip…

Chaudanji:  What is your George Bush doing?

Me:  I don’t know… he’ s retired, on vacation.

Chaudanji: I don’t know much about your new Barak Obama but I do think you deserved better than George Bush.

Me:  Thank you.

 

Chaudanji: What do you eat at home?

Me: ummmm… salad, veggie burgers, and I like to eat Indian at home too (note to self, need to vary menu when I get home)

 

Chaudanji: Is there a recession going on in America?

Me: Yes, we are having economic difficulties.

Chaudanji:  What does that look like?

Me: People are losing their jobs, taking less wages, losing benefits….

Chaudanji: hmmm… I think it’ll go on for another 2-3 years.

Me:  No comment

 

Chaudanji: What are the best jobs in America? 

Me: Best jobs? In terms of salary? Working conditions? Prestige?

Chaudanji:  In India, doctor is best job and government jobs are 2^nd best

Me: I don’t know if we have a “best” job.  People like different jobs for different reasons.  Business people or executives are highly regarded.  Also doctors….

Chaudanji: Not government jobs?

Me: No, not really.

Chaudanji: Unless you are Barak Obama?

Me:  Yes…Obama has a good but challenging job (Later I discover, he has a framed picture of Obama on his desk)

 

So…. I think the field visit helped me “bond:  with my new Indian boss and I’m ready for day 3 or work.

 

….If I could only go to sleep!

 

PS.  For a visual…I’m sweating so much that the bracelets that the village women tied on my arms are bleeding.  My arms are a glistening pink, red, and blue.

 

Also, the tailor “lost” my fabric, so I don’t have my new Indian clothes yet.  “no problem, no problem” I was told.  So you’ll have to stay tuned for those fashionable photos…

 

Hope you are all well.  Thinking of you while I sweat!

 

 

 

 

Welcome to Jodhpur!

Namaste, y'all!  

Day 3 in Jodhpur and so far, so great!  I'm sitting on the floor in the FSD office right now working on my computer listening to the frequent honking (beep beep) outside. It's so wild.  

I've been so impressed with FSD and how organized everything is.  They have done an excellent job helping us transition into life in Jodhpur.  We are staying at a hotel right now during orientation and then are moving in with our host families tomorrow (Tuesday).  I really enjoy the other participants in the program...they are all so smart and have done such amazing things in their lives.  Very inspiring!  Michael and I are the only 2 in the volunteer "pro corps" program. The others are much younger and are here as part of an undergrad or graduate school internship.  

It's really, really hot (107 degrees) but I'm managing.  Sweating is a way of life here.  As I've been told... "sweating means your body is working".  It's like a bikram (hot yoga) class all the time.  The food is amazing!  Since we are eating in restaurants right now, we are able to try so many different cuisines.... much different and better than my local Indian spots (sorry Sitar and Bombay Palace).  I'm looking forward to checking out traditional Jodhpur food while eating with my host family. 

Yesterday my local program coordinator, Smita took us shopping for "appropriate" work clothes...salwar kameez.   It was such a fun experience.  We picked out fabrics from a fabric store and then went to a tailor to get the clothes made.  The fabric store was overwhelming (I'm overwhelmed in a fabric store in Nashville!)  We had way too many choices.  In India the brighter and crazier (in my opinion) color/pattern for top bottom combo the better!    I'm afraid my new beautiful, bright Indian outfits will make me look like a clown!  The male tailor couldn't/wouldn't take a female's measurements so Smita measured us and helped us "design" our outfits which basically meant picking out neckline and sleeve length.  I have my 1st fitting today so I'll keep you posted on how it goes. 

Thru FSD, we're taking Hindi lessons.  I wish I had prepped more before I came because it'd be really fun (and productive) to be able to speak a little Hindi.  The good news is that a lot of people speak "hindi-glish" so I'll be able to manage.  

I hope all is well with you.  More observations (and photos) to follow. 

I'm off to lunch...

I'm here!

After all the rushing and wondering, I'm finally here safe and sound.  After planning to have a 5 hour lay over in Newark, I ended up having only 15 min to spare before they plane doors were closed.  It all worked out.  

The 14.5 hour flight was quite comfortable (thanks to the extra leg room of the bulk head).  I ate dinner, watched a movie with a glass of wine and then slept 6 hours straight!! (due to ambien and exhaustion).  Arriving in Delhi was easy and my hotel driver was there waiting for me with a smile (thank God).  

So...so far, so good!!!  It's 105 outside (dry heat!)  I'm so happy to be back in India.  The crazy traffic, nicest people, interesting outfits, auto rickshaws, overflowing buses...  haven't seen a cow yet!

Now a shower and off to bed.    I have a wake up call at 6:30 back to Delhi airport at 7:15 for 9:35 flight.  I look forward to connecting with Michael and settling into Jodphur. 

Thanks again for your interest.  Happy weekend to you!

I'm off!

Well, I cut it about as close as one can…  I picked up my VISA from FedEx on my way to the airport.  (Huge props to Fed Ex who rushed my package and facilitated the early pick up AND even made copies of my VISA for me!)  Another gift…I won the seating lottery and was able to get a bulk head (more leg room) window seat secured for my Newark to Delhi flight (14 ½ hours).   Soooooo happy!!  The Universe is aligning and making this journey happen.

I think I’m prepared.  All my clothes fit in a 1-gallon zip lock.  (2 skirts, 2 pants, 4 t shirts, etc) My bag is full of medicine, toiletries, and “equipment”.  This is the 1^st time I’ve traveled with so much technology.  It’ll be interesting to see how it impacts the experience. 

 

I’m scheduled to land in Delhi at 8:15 PM on Friday evening, will stay at a hotel that night and then meet my friend Michael at the Delhi airport so we can fly Kingfisher Air (the SWA of India) together to Jodhpur.  The Foundation for Sustainable Development (FSD) local folks will pick us up and take us to our families. 

 

I’ll be staying with a young family for my month in Jodhpur. Father: Mr. Parikshit Singh Chaudah, 34, Manager of Venture Resort Mother:  Mrs. Sandhya Chaudah, 30, preschool teacher at Sri Aurobindo School Daughter:  Anushree, 7 student at Sri Aurobindo School

 

I was told that Mr. Chaudah's home is located on a shared compound in a beautiful serene area on the outskirts of Jodhpur.  The house has 2 bedrooms and a shared bathroom.  My room has a separate entrance and a big window.  The house is about a 1-kilometer walk from the main highway, where public transport like city buses (numbers 1 and 7) and auto-rickshaws are readily available.  The family belongs to the Rajput, or Khatriya, caste, the former kings of Rajasthan.  Living with this family will be an excellent opportunity to immerse in Indian culture, learn about traditional practices in the Indian home, learn some Hindi and make some friends! 

I’m really excited about the journey and leaning into this adventure with curiosity. There is much unknown.  (My biggest concern right now is that the hotel will be at the Delhi to pick me up!)  I’m thinking about you and all the unknowns we face… my CCU family wondering what’s next, my dear friend Erika who’s under going surgery, my sis’s pregnancy and the excitement around my new lil niece/nephew, when will Coco’s voice come back?  And on…and on…  

Now, I wait in the airport.  Flights are delayed and I’m content to just sit, breathe deeply and settle into my Kindle. 

Thanks so much for all the happy emails and voicemails.  You humble me with your kind support.  I’m carrying you all in my pocket!  

The journey begins...

When I was laid off 4 weeks ago I knew that the change would bring opportunity... well, my first opportunity has come in the form of an Indian Summer!  

I'll be leaving Thursday (yikes) to begin my Summer "sabbatical", flying from Nashville to Newark to Delhi then on to my 1st stop...Jodphur! I plan on spending the summer in India making use of this beautiful gift called time while working with local NGOs (non government organizations), traveling, learning about myself and others and figuring out what's next.  

To begin with, I'll be volunteering with the Foundation for Sustainable Development (www.fsdinternational.org) with my friend and former colleague, Michael Kitchart.  I've been assigned to work with UNNATI, an organization who "aims to create an inclusive society where all stakeholders, particularly the vulnerable Dalits ("Untouchables") and women, participate with full empowerment and gain equal access to and control over services, resources, and institutions".  Check it out... www.unnati.org.  I think the assignment is a good fit for me and I know I'll learn lots from the organization and the women it serves. Much more on this to come...

Right now, my time is focused on packing and getting prepared for the journey.   Keep your fingers crossed, light a candle and say a prayer that I get my VISA in time.  That's the only thing that stands in the way of boarding the plane on Thursday.  

I'm going to try to use this blog to stay in touch and share my journey.   (Please excuse any typos, spelling errors or lackluster content).  You too may post me messages via this site.  Please keep in touch. 

Above all, thank you for your interest. I'm blessed to have such a wonderful support system.  Please keep me in your prayers... pray for safe journeys, good health, and meaningful experiences.  I pray that I can be present every step of the way.  Thy will be done...

NAMASTE!